Time to Click: Advanced Buttons

More and more advanced buttons and functions today!

Basic Digital was always the hardest class to teach for me, because I never had the time to explain all the buttons. In truth, I will never have the time because every camera is slightly different... and new things keep getting added! Really, honestly your manual is still your best guide to what each icon, and button represent.  At the same time, your manual is probably the worst way to learn what each button does!

Before we dive into some of the more advanced buttons... I want to make sure each of you understand that more then one function may be available with each button.  There are 3 standard ways to get into those additional functions...regardless of camera type.

1. Selective button. Hitting the same button over and over to change the function.
2. Command wheel. Hit and hold the button, and then spin a command wheel, to change the functions (typical on bridge and DSLR cameras)
3.Arrow or "cross key" selection. Where you use the arrow keys to select - typically in menu selections and not "button" selections... but not always.

When your discovering your camera and trying to get into different options be sure to see what happens if you press the same button multiple times, or spin a wheel.

Now to start with our buttons! Granted most of these will be available on bridge, or DSLR camera's it doesn't mean that point and shoots WONT have any of these options... some of these are found on all cameras still and others you will have to check YOUR camera for!

Command Dial: Cameras can have 0, 1, or 2 different wheels. On cameras with 2, one typically controls the shutter, and one controls the aperture. The "main" wheel will also control other push and hold button selections.

View Finder: On DSLR this is almost always a true through the lens look. An "optical view. You may also have a digital LCD view, or a mirror-less view... or you may not have a viewfinder at all.. you may simply have a LCD on the back of your camera where you shoot from. If you do have the optical view, I suggest you use it rather then the "live view" from the LCD... not only will you be able to see it better in all kinds of light, but you will use less battery power not running the LCD all the time!

Tip: You may find a small dial located right next to it. This is called a Diopter Correction dial. If you wear glasses or contacts you can use this to correct the viewfinder to your eye. It doesn't have anything to do with your image focus, but could make it more comfortable for you shooting.


LCD: (liquid crystal display) You may already know that this is the backside screen that your used to shooting with, or reviewing your images on. Many camera's use this for the shooting information, battery and other display information. However, some use monochrome LCD's for this. When your camera has an additional monochrome display, it is typically on the top next to the shutter button. The information stays on for quick review and changes, but it uses less battery power then your full color display on the back. 

Focus Switch: Found only on cameras with interchangeable lenses... it will typically be a switch with two options AF (auto focus) and M (manual, meaning you would focus by turning the focus ring on your lens). Sometimes you will have the option on your lens as well. Unless you doing macro work, you will probably be just fine with auto focus! 



Remote, Self Timer:  A remote allows you to  trigger the shutter without touching your camera. The self timer will do the same thing if a remote isn't an option. If you want to do self portraits, or portraits with you in them,  low light images with long shutters where pushing a shutter could cause camera shake.. these are really good controls to know!
Tip: If your self timer has a number in the icon, that indicates how many seconds you have before your shutter fires.

Continuous, Burst or Single Frame shooting: Exactly like it sounds like, these options control how many times your shutter fires - while your holding down the shutter button. On the single option even if you hold the button down it will only fire once, where on the continuous mode it will continue to fire. Burst modes typically have a limit on how many frames they will take before stopping. The ability to take multiple images quickly is really handy if your shooting kids or pets. However, keep in mind it does not refocus for each shot. Good if your subject is on the same focus field, bad if they are moving up and down a sports field, or walking towards you like during a wedding. 


AF: (AF-S and AF-C) Auto Focus modes: (you may have a button or a switch..)

Single-servo autofocus (AF-S) For  subjects that are not moving. On any camera you focus your shot by depressing the shutter halfway. This "locks" the focus and without releasing the shutter you press it the rest of the way down to take your shot. With -Continuous-servo autofocus (AF-C)
The camera focuses continuously while the shutter-release button is pressed halfway; if the subject moves, the camera will engage predictive focus tracking to determine the final distance to the subject and adjust focus as necessary. Perfect for sports, weddings, kids, pets... you know things that move! 

Area Focus Sample switch with icons

Area Focus: This controls your auto focus area. Many times you may want to control where your camera is focusing.. but you may not want to, or be able to use a manual focus mode. You can choose from your entire screen which is good for scenic and group shots (top image full white square) and allows your camera to select focus points. Center focus (top image, bottom icon small square) which is perfect for portraits, macro, product, and such things where your subject will be in the middle of your composed image. Or, choose the middle icon Selective focus (shown above with a small square with other squares around it).  You will see where your camera is focusing on SLR cameras through your viewfinder.

View from viewfinder: Highlights red on focus area.

With Selective Focus, you use your dial, arrow keys or cross keys to highlight the focus area you want your camera to focus on. By selecting where you want your camera to focus you can have better composition (framing) of your images... say if you want to do an image where the subject is to the far left.

Now... of course I haven't covered all the buttons that you could have. Like I said when we started, there are simply so many of them and differences between camera's! However, I bet you are looking at your camera thinking I have missed a couple of REALLY big ones... like Flash!  I really didn't forget! Next week there will be adding to our series with flash posts, and even more digital 101 information coming your way!

Time to Click: Memory Cards

Memory... Memory... Memory!

Wish you had more? Wish it was more reliable? Wish it was faster? Did you know that all of these are things you can control? Well, for your camera's memory at least!

Of course, before we go diving into answering those questions for you - you have to know what kind of memory your camera takes! Luckliy this has gotten a LOT easier in the past few years as well!

First, a memory card is an electronic data storage device used for storing digital information. They are commonly used in many electronic devices, including digital cameras, mobile phones, laptop computers, MP3 players and video game consoles. They are small, re-recordable, and able to retain data without power.  Remember your lens is the eye, the sensor is the brain and the memory card is the "mouth" of your digital camera. I like to think of the memory card as the mouth because its the first step in sharing your images.

Your camera manufacturer determines what type of memory they want to use for their devices. When digital first came out, each manufacturer (or most) had "their" own separate kind.. luckily now most opt for the very popular SD (secure digital) style. It basically won the war being small, and more durable then other competition. 

Since point and shoot, bridge and DSLR's for the most part all use SD style cards I am going to focus on that for the rest of the post, however do take a moment and check your camera though. If you have a CF (compact flash) or something else from an older camera - be sure to check with me for some extra safety and purchasing tips!

Even within the SD card style there are differences... what you will first notice is SD and SDHC

SDHC - Secure Digital High Capacity memory cards are simply cards with a minimum capacity of 4GB (gigabytes). They are still the same physical size the SDHC Cards are newer and used for devices that require a higher capacity card. This also comes with a performance to match. SDHC cards are designed for devices that are compatible with the SD 2.00 specification. (faster)


Remember, if your device accepts SDHC cards, it is backwards compatible with standard Secure Digital (SD) cards.

SD Cards: Were the first style and slower with a 1.0 and 1.1 specification (if your into the numbers thing / for everyone else these are simply slightly slower for writting information and downloading it to your computer). If your camera says SD only for use you will not be able to utilize SDHC cards.  To check if your device is compatible with SDHC look in your device manual or on the packaging, even the card door will typically have it written on it if it accepts the SDHC cards.

Now every card (regardless of style) also tells you the SIZE of memory within the card itself. Remember our chart? 

Your cards could have a MB (megabyte) like 526MB (1/2 of a GIG)
Or a GIG (Gigabyte) like the chart shown above have....
and very quickly were finding TB (terabyte cards will be/are coming out into the marketplace... but we probably don't have to worry you about them right now... just know its like 1000Gig)

You need to know what these mean so you know what your purchasing... 32GB will hold 32 times the amount of information as a 1 GB card.... and depending on your MP(mega pixels) and sensor of your card... this will vary the amount of images you get on your memory card - right? Again, I am going to suggest you get at least 2 cards... and if you go on vacation or shoot a once in a lifetime event... use at least 2 cards swapping back and forth... you know... all your eggs in one basket and safety in numbers and all that... I like back ups :)

You also should be aware that there are different SPEED of cards. This determines how quickly it can accept new information from your sensor, and how quickly it will send the information to your computer. Kinda.  You see, faster cards are better... unless your camera, or card reader, or computer, limits the cards speed. So you may or may not see the difference with a faster card. Technically the speed rating deals with some other things as well.. but overall this is the nitty-gritty of it. I would say if its not a price issue for you - get the higher speed card. When you upload as many images as I do .5 of a second here and there really does start to add up and my time is valuable.

Brands: Just like I suggest a good manufacture for your camera I suggest a well known one for your cards as well. People who have been in business longer and are well known usually stand behind their products and put out better products (in general). I know many photographers who will only shoot with Sandisk cards, and I know others who swear by Lexar. Personally, I have used both and they would top my list as reliable manufactures. They are not the only ones out there... but it would be my suggestion to stick with one of them.

Don't forget: Check your card packaging for warranty information or recovery software. More then once I have purchased Lexar cards that came with recovery software and have used it to recover images from friends cards. Funny enough never my own card, go figure. But good to have regardless!


Another thing you should know is that while the SD card is fairly durable, they can be damaged. They do get errors, corrupted files, and can even lose information or become unreadable. Hense, the tip about having some recover software! Anyways, I have found that these things are more likely to happen in high humidity areas, as well as if they are being handled in dry areas... static shock. Water Damage is also not good... so don't store them in your pockets or anything else that might go into the wash. Trust me.

I have found the best way to keep track of, and keep my cards safe is a memory card holder like this. I like the hard case designs, but have several of the cloth ones and they work well also. They hold the cards in place, and you can tuck one of those silicone packs that come with your shoes inside to keep moisture out. (great in your camera bag also) I even keep a cleaning cloth in mine so I can clean my lens when I change by card. Handy.

Time to click: Top 5 Safety Accessories

Today is all about safety!  I bet you didn't even know there was such a thing as camera safety did you?!

Well, I am here to tell you how to keep your new camera safe! Here are my top 5 things to purchase for EVERY camera.

1. A GOOD Camera strap: I know I told you to use what came in the box, and compared to the alternative of nothing... PLEASE use the one in the box! However, I also know if your wearing it around your neck, over your shoulder or simply around your wrist.. your going to want something comfortable if not fashionable as well! Pick up a good strap, and if needed add a slip cover to it to make it something you will be happy using!

I like the handmade covers like this, esp with a built in storage for lens cap / memory card so I don't have to dig around my bag all the time. Remember its the STRAP that is important, the cover is just "pretty". I wish I could remember where I found this one... its a great handmade store on etsy or storenvy! Be sure to check there before buying a mass produced one!

What makes a "good" Strap?

Well that kinda depends on the person and camera. For most p&s camera's a simple wrist strap which is small and compact is a good fit. A wrist strap should attach securely to your camera and slide over your wrist but not be so lose that it would fall off your wrist (or get in the way of your shooting) I personally like something a little thicker with a band to tighten or loosen... like this one shown. (Also great for bridge cameras or people who don't like to wear something around a neck or shoulder.)

 As an alternative, or for people who like larger cameras' a "hand" style strap that fits over your hand as your shooting (sometimes attached to the bottom of an SLR, sometimes just to one side) You can pick up these in different styles, colors or materials... from leather to neoprene. 

 A neck or shoulder strap should be well padded. Typically the ones in the box are made from a nylon webbing and while durable, they are not very comfortable. Personally I like the neoprene padded straps that curve like this one from Lexar shown...It is harder to find a custom cover for these, but it can be done! The curve is WELL worth it! Also, I find that wearing it around my neck causes strain and gives me headaches so I have a longer one (called a sling strap) where if I will be shooting all day it can be worn across my body from my left shoulder, to right hip. While I don't have an image for this - I just found a manufacture who designed one just for women with the padding going down farther in front. http://joby.com/camera-straps/ultrafit-sling-strap-for-women/

 Be sure to fit the strap to you.  It doesn't do you much good to have a great strap if it isn't put on right! BTW, if you shop in your local photography store the salesmen/women will usually help you with this if you need!
 

Now, I swap my straps more then the average person, but I find that I don't like a strap when I am using a tripod, and use a smaller hand strap for small portrait sessions for ease... and my sling strap for events where I am walking and talking... so it would be crazy for me to reattach each strap all the time. Instead I have something that looks like this with the quick release snap on the left. It attaches like any other with the slip knot on style image on the right. With this attached I can then leave the strap off it all together with just small attachments hanging down, or attach either the hand or the sling to the same quick release making it fit my needs. Very handy!

2. A Camera bag that fits! Lowepro, Caselogic and Tamrac are simply 3 camera bag companies that offer great bags. They make them in every size, with hard cases, or extra padding... get one that fits your camera, and has room for your accessories! if you have a DSLR give yourself room to grow to add flash, lenses, etc. Also, make sure you have a secure place to keep an extra battery and memory card!

(I will mention I think both are great quality, but Lowepro started in Boulder, CO and has a great Green Product / ECO plan.. so I am partial to them!) I linked those two sites, but there are tons of other manufactures you can check out as well. There is a camera bag for everyone... even this that slides inside of a large purse to make a protective and discreet camera bag. It really needs to fit your lifestyle and gear

3. UV FILTER: If you own a camera that will allow you to add a filter over your lens, get one! Any and every DSLR lens you own should have a UV filter on it. Some bridge cameras will allow for this also, and the new "bridge" style that are slimline with changeable lenses like the new Nikon 1 systems. Here is the deal, on average you will spend from 15 - 25 dollars on a good quality UV filter... depending on brand and quality,  look for something that is "multi-coated" and your typically in good shape. While they have been used in the past to correct things like lens glare and reduce haze, improve contrast by minimizing the amount of UV light reaching film, lenses have gotten better and digital sensors are not as sensitive to UV light... so you no longer need it for its original purpose. Which has many old school photographers pitching them all together. However... now they are primary a PROTECTIVE device. I mean would you rather pay $15 for a new filter if you drop your lens on a rock... or replace your $400 plus lens when you crack or scratch the front glass element?

A protective filter (or UV/Haze Filter) protects your front element from sand, scratches, most impact damage, and even from cleaning and normal wear on the lens coating itself... you just replace the UV filter when you notice the wear or damage and keep your lens in great condition!

To find the right size filter... look at your lens, or each lens to find the mm size you need. You will find this usually on the side or front of your lens. (not to be confused with the focal length that you find in the description of your lens) For instance I have one 50mm 1:1.8 Nikkor lens.. which is the TYPE of lens not the lens size. The FILTER size is 52... which is found next to the serial number. A good cheat, is to look at your lens cap, it is usually printed on the back side!!!! Your filter will screw on to your lens and your lens cap will fit right onto it. If you get into using other filters, those will go in front of your UV - so it can stay on ALL the time!



4. Lens Cap Keeper: Every camera comes with a lens cap... some are even built in! BONUS! These are fantastic for protecting your lens (even with a filter!) really its your first line of defense, if your not actively taking a photo, your lens cap should be on. However for those of you who have lens caps that remove completely... be sure to pick up either a pouch to put it in that would attach to your camera strap, or a lens leash.This will keep it handy and safe, and not sitting on the fence post, rock or otherwise lost when you remember to put it back on!

Lens leashes are only a couple of dollars making them a quick and inexpensive option.

These next ones attach to the strap... and your cap hangs,clips, or gets tucked inside of  it (like the pouch shown hanging from the strap image above)... fun, but depends on the strap you have if it would work for you.... and btw caps don't come with the hang tags so you have to get them attached or buy special caps for the image on the left....

Now this next one I came across while searching for some sample images for you... SUPER awesome it was running a Kickstarter campaign to get funding for production... if you have a DSLR and don't use your tripod this is nice and handy, the groves are designed to hold any lens cap regardless of size, and it's tucked out of the way under your camera body. Here is the kickstarter link as well.

5. Damage Protection.

First, I want to disclose that I am not a salesperson. I don't get kick backs on any of my suggestions in any way. I want you to know that I am a FIRM believer in CERTAIN types of protection plans. Lets clarify why and what is helpful to you.

Manufacturers Warranty: This the the warranty card you get in your box. They can be anywhere from 30 - 90 days (typical of video,  memory cards, and some times extra battery chargers) to 1 year of LIMITED Warranty. Let's face it - it says limited for a reason. It usually lists what it covers as defects in materials or workmanship. Meaning if it works when you take it out of the box, chances are nothing is defective. Sometimes this will even exclude parts or labor cost, repair service from  non authorized personnel (meaning not their repair facility) and of course it specifically will tell you that they are not liable for any punitive damages and such... meaning if you shoot a friends wedding with your camera and it failed - even if the repair is covered they are not going to pay for a new wedding so you can re-shoot it... it's called limited liability, they are only responsible for the camera or lens - not the emotional, perceived, or physical cost of anything effected by your loss.  (NO WARRANTY will cover this... not on memory cards, or equipment... nothing... it's just part of the business and why I always say have extra cards, batteries etc available... just in case)

Be sure to read your warranty card - you almost always have to register your product. I suggest you take the time to do it (yes even on cards, etc) just in case. Especially if this is all the protection you have. 

Extended Warranty: This gets tricky. You have to read very carefully what these cover. This can usually be purchased from your retailer. Sometimes your credit card or insurance agent will offer you these types of plans as well. You just have to read up on them. MOST are simply an extension of the manufacturers warranty.. covering manufacturer defect. If you don't know already, it is very unlikely that a manufacturer will find a real defect in a camera after 1 year. Like I said, if it worked out of the box, typically your issue will be something not covered. 

However. Some Extended plans, or DAMAGE PROTECTION plans offer you full repair or replacement if your item is damaged due to impact, water damage, sand, child... whatever.... it really is rare but I know the retail giant Wolf/ Ritz offered this and I have seen others online as well like one offered by Amazon. It would pay to check into it! Damage protection means if your kid dumps it in the toilet, or pool, or you back over it with your car... it would get fixed as long as it wasn't lost or stolen. 

Lost and stolen can sometimes be covered under your insurance or credit card protection plans so be sure to look into that as well! 

I highly suggest you check into extra coverage, especially if you have something that covers accidents. They DO happen. Really, even if you pay $20 extra for 3 years on a $200 camera - its a fraction of what you would pay to replace it, so it makes good sense. Repairing cameras can be very expensive, and can take a long time! I have seen camera's out for repair that had to wait on a part of over 3 months! CRAZY! But, when a repair can cost 50% to 80% of your camera's price... paying a small amount for the protection plan really does become logical. ( Look into SquareTrade when purchasing digital equipment online, I have it from some amazon purchases and it covers accidents!)

If you don't have the option for a damage protection plan... then get out a jar and start putting $1 - $5 in it every time you take photos.  Then you have a repair or replacement fund when you need it!

There you go my top 5 accessories to keep your camera investment safe!

Tuesday Tip: Backup

I can't tell you how many times I have been thankful for being obsessive about backing up my images. If you haven't ran into this issue yet personally or professionally with images or other files - well your time is running out! The day's of only worrying about your family photos burning in a fire or being lost in a flood are gone. Now, a simple power-outage, computer failure, or hard drive crash can be devastating!

What can you do? BACK them UP!

Here are some great options: Share images with friends and family.

• I create disks to send to several members of my family on a regular basis so that if something happens on my end (like an act of nature) my images are stored off site - safe and sound with Gma.
• Utilize a remote drive. I have a network drive that backs up all my files each night while I am sleeping. It turns on automatically, backs up... and then turns off. 
• Utilize online storage. This is great for images - you can upload and download as needed on several sites. Do you research and don't count this as your main source- we are already seeing companies merging or closing and files being deleted, or account passwords being lost. 
• Safety Deposit box. I used to teach to burn a disk/ dvd of images and put them in a fire safe box... now there are better larger options... and disks and Dvd's will eventually be replaced by the smaller thumbs and media storage devices. Regardless of what you use to put the images on - getting them into a firesafe box or a safety deposit box off site is a good plan

I would suggest choosing several options. I do. I never count on one "backup" there is safety in knowing that I have options if something goes wrong.  I take the same care with my client photos backing up final copies and originals in several secure ways. In fact. I schedule one day each month as an "office" day and I verify my remote drive is backing up, I burn DVD's for my file, export to a HD for the fire box, and generally back up everything for that past month.

The one thing that I will also tell you - I firmly believe the best gift you can give is a photograph, and it isn't a photograph till you can hold it in your hand. Print your images when you give them to someone! Take the time to put together a book, or album of your visit with them and they will cherish it! Plus, its one more item you have "just in case"!

Happy Back up day!