Phone vs Camera

What is the difference? 

Does it matter?

How does this topic play into product photography?

I am so glad you asked!

I will start this post by saying I did not purchase my phone for its camera... nor do I shoot any images that are important to me with it. I don't have an I-phone, I did borrow one for the sake of being fair while posting this.  I admit the I-phones do have better specs... but they are still so limited that I still feel that I can group them in with all the other camera phones and give you a solid understanding of why I feel the way I do about the use of camera phones for product photography. 

First, do you remember our sensor size handy chart?

See that small grey square - that's your sensor size compared to all the other camera sensors... now this image is obviously NOT showing you "real" size... but you can see by reading 3mm x 4mm is like smaller then your pinky nail... so no matter how many pixels are on it - they are SUPER tiny! It simply can not grab the same amount of information that even the most basic Point and Shoot (being twice as large) can. When you compare it to a DSLR  or Pro Camera well... come on! I have said before I don't consider them to be "real" camera's for a this  reason alone! Let's not even start on the quality of lens, light gathering abilities or anything else that makes a great image!

However, I know looking at this you still might not understand how a sensor with 5 or 8 mega Pixels can really be all the different in a phone, compared to a camera.. so I thought I would put it to the test for you. In the interest of fairness and full disclosure -

For the this series of images  I used my Pantech 4G LTE phone with a 5mp Camera and no flash
The DSLR I used for this shoot was my trusty (but old) D80 (only a 10mp) and 35mm 1.4 lens, however I used it in Program mode, with auto WB, and no flash unless noted.

Here are my sample images, I like many of you I shot next to a window, rather then with studio lighting, as well as with a simple piece of tag board for a background, so you can get a solid comparison.

I have done no photo shop editing, and only changed the file name.

So you can see  where I was shooting - it was roughly 8am for the first round

Cell Phone Image - Natural Light 8 am

SLR Image - Natural Light 8am No edits

SLR Image - Natural Light from Window, along with a low powered, bounced flash (pointed straight up so only reflected light from the ceiling was captured)

Cell Phone Image - Natural Light 8 am- close up

SLR Image - Natural light - Close up - 35mm fixed lens.

 

 Ok. So this is as close as I can get since this isn't a "macro" lens... however.....Because the larger sensor size, better lens, and more clear image... I can crop in using Photoshop. Cropped to 4x6 at 300ppi - still without any other color balance, or editing done to the image.

Cropped Image - Here you can see the texture of the paper its so close!

 While if I take a similar image off the phone and crop the same way and crop the same distance out... we end up with

cropped image - Can YOU see the pixels?

Now.. it doesn't really matter that my camera phone says it is 8 mp. The size of the chip, the poor lens (which is plastic) along with the poor light gathering capabilities is what is causing the difference in quality for these images. You can see that the image with the bounced flash is honestly the BEST, with the truest colors, and the most pleasant to look at because it is sharper, and the light bouncing around creates a solid clean background. You can see details even though it is not a "detail" shot. This is the difference you get with better equipment and some basic knowlage of how to use it.

Now just to be perfectly fair, I wanted to give the phone a fighting chance and try it with some bright sunlight, because we know that LIGHT does MATTER! So at 10am this morning when the sun comes in my office window at it's brightest, I took these. I used the same set up. Despite the fact that the window panes cause a very distracting shadow here are the results.

Phone - Bright Sunny Day 10 am

Camera - Bright sunny day- Program Mode, No flash, No WB

 Even with the shadows from my window pane the clarity and quality are clear.

Now, I understand that I didn't have a point and shoot camera to be able to compare in the mix for you, however... depending on camera, lens options and what settings you can do with it - You can expect the results to be (not surprisingly) somewhere in the middle.




I did also have a chance to shoot my husbands brand new Iphone 5 that he has for work - unfortunately he doesn't keep it on the weekends, so the only chance I had to test was after work one afternoon. The window itself was in the shade of the overhang, still there was a solid amount of strong light coming in... not that you could really tell.

Iphone No Flash, Sunny Day 3pm

Yes, thats still the white background....

Using the built in Flash - Same window light

Still the white background. Plus, since there is no way to direct the flash, it creates a harsh shadow behind the subject. It also created a very odd line where the paper bent along the wall, and should have been seamless - it looks like a horizon line but the paper was one long slope.. so thats very odd to me.

No Flash - Macro shot with available sunlight 3pm

Macro with flash

I admit the images were more clear then I expected the lens appears more sharper then I expected. However, without the flash (which you can't bounce or control in any way other then on or off) the images were still very poor. They were better with flash, but still not great, the color was off DRASTICALLY and the flash created harsh shadows you couldn't control. So, I wouldn't tell you to go off and buy one for your imaging needs - ever! However, I admit if you already have one, it is probably as good as what you could expect from a simple point and shoot from a few years ago. Not great, or even what I would say was "good", but better then my android phone.


With the way the shadows fall, and the look of "interpretation" with the creation of the horizon line and the color differences I would be shocked if the processor (sensor) didn't have some sort of programing to help improve images. Since I am not a phone sells person I have no idea if this is true - but it certainly didn't act like a normal camera under the same conditions. If anyone is really curious let me know and I will find the answer.

The results:

If your phone is the only option you have - I suggest you visit your local used camera store and see what is out there for a year or two old point and shoot or mid range camera - I have seen some good ones  online like on  Adorama for $50- $80 - it would be a whole lot easier then investing in a phone tripod, and imaging apps/software to edit, maybe lighting, or product tent kits, or even a new phone. Many of them would have fantastic white balancing, macro and even the possibility to work with additional flash!

There was a day when used digital (especially point and shoot) wasn't worth it - but not any more. For core imaging needs you can pick up a good quality used or refurbished camera if you don't have money for a new one and feel good about your purchase! I recently picked up a used DSLR for my nephews digital photo class - all in we spent $400 to set him up with cards, basic lens, Nikon entry level body, bag, battery and charger. Really a solid investment, as long as he doesn't skateboard with it.

Plus, once you have solid product images selling your items becomes SO much easier! The more you sell the faster you pay off the camera (oh and yes - it would be a business write off for taxes!)


Again the Phone Charm featured in these images was created by Crafty Gal Creations. Please do not pin those images without adding her information! If you wish to purchase similar items please visit her shop!

Time to Click: Memory Cards

Memory... Memory... Memory!

Wish you had more? Wish it was more reliable? Wish it was faster? Did you know that all of these are things you can control? Well, for your camera's memory at least!

Of course, before we go diving into answering those questions for you - you have to know what kind of memory your camera takes! Luckliy this has gotten a LOT easier in the past few years as well!

First, a memory card is an electronic data storage device used for storing digital information. They are commonly used in many electronic devices, including digital cameras, mobile phones, laptop computers, MP3 players and video game consoles. They are small, re-recordable, and able to retain data without power.  Remember your lens is the eye, the sensor is the brain and the memory card is the "mouth" of your digital camera. I like to think of the memory card as the mouth because its the first step in sharing your images.

Your camera manufacturer determines what type of memory they want to use for their devices. When digital first came out, each manufacturer (or most) had "their" own separate kind.. luckily now most opt for the very popular SD (secure digital) style. It basically won the war being small, and more durable then other competition. 

Since point and shoot, bridge and DSLR's for the most part all use SD style cards I am going to focus on that for the rest of the post, however do take a moment and check your camera though. If you have a CF (compact flash) or something else from an older camera - be sure to check with me for some extra safety and purchasing tips!

Even within the SD card style there are differences... what you will first notice is SD and SDHC

SDHC - Secure Digital High Capacity memory cards are simply cards with a minimum capacity of 4GB (gigabytes). They are still the same physical size the SDHC Cards are newer and used for devices that require a higher capacity card. This also comes with a performance to match. SDHC cards are designed for devices that are compatible with the SD 2.00 specification. (faster)


Remember, if your device accepts SDHC cards, it is backwards compatible with standard Secure Digital (SD) cards.

SD Cards: Were the first style and slower with a 1.0 and 1.1 specification (if your into the numbers thing / for everyone else these are simply slightly slower for writting information and downloading it to your computer). If your camera says SD only for use you will not be able to utilize SDHC cards.  To check if your device is compatible with SDHC look in your device manual or on the packaging, even the card door will typically have it written on it if it accepts the SDHC cards.

Now every card (regardless of style) also tells you the SIZE of memory within the card itself. Remember our chart? 

Your cards could have a MB (megabyte) like 526MB (1/2 of a GIG)
Or a GIG (Gigabyte) like the chart shown above have....
and very quickly were finding TB (terabyte cards will be/are coming out into the marketplace... but we probably don't have to worry you about them right now... just know its like 1000Gig)

You need to know what these mean so you know what your purchasing... 32GB will hold 32 times the amount of information as a 1 GB card.... and depending on your MP(mega pixels) and sensor of your card... this will vary the amount of images you get on your memory card - right? Again, I am going to suggest you get at least 2 cards... and if you go on vacation or shoot a once in a lifetime event... use at least 2 cards swapping back and forth... you know... all your eggs in one basket and safety in numbers and all that... I like back ups :)

You also should be aware that there are different SPEED of cards. This determines how quickly it can accept new information from your sensor, and how quickly it will send the information to your computer. Kinda.  You see, faster cards are better... unless your camera, or card reader, or computer, limits the cards speed. So you may or may not see the difference with a faster card. Technically the speed rating deals with some other things as well.. but overall this is the nitty-gritty of it. I would say if its not a price issue for you - get the higher speed card. When you upload as many images as I do .5 of a second here and there really does start to add up and my time is valuable.

Brands: Just like I suggest a good manufacture for your camera I suggest a well known one for your cards as well. People who have been in business longer and are well known usually stand behind their products and put out better products (in general). I know many photographers who will only shoot with Sandisk cards, and I know others who swear by Lexar. Personally, I have used both and they would top my list as reliable manufactures. They are not the only ones out there... but it would be my suggestion to stick with one of them.

Don't forget: Check your card packaging for warranty information or recovery software. More then once I have purchased Lexar cards that came with recovery software and have used it to recover images from friends cards. Funny enough never my own card, go figure. But good to have regardless!


Another thing you should know is that while the SD card is fairly durable, they can be damaged. They do get errors, corrupted files, and can even lose information or become unreadable. Hense, the tip about having some recover software! Anyways, I have found that these things are more likely to happen in high humidity areas, as well as if they are being handled in dry areas... static shock. Water Damage is also not good... so don't store them in your pockets or anything else that might go into the wash. Trust me.

I have found the best way to keep track of, and keep my cards safe is a memory card holder like this. I like the hard case designs, but have several of the cloth ones and they work well also. They hold the cards in place, and you can tuck one of those silicone packs that come with your shoes inside to keep moisture out. (great in your camera bag also) I even keep a cleaning cloth in mine so I can clean my lens when I change by card. Handy.

Time to Click: Understanding Megapixels pt2

We talked yesterday about the "meat and potatoes" so to speak of what megapixels are, and why they are important to understand. As well as how they relate to your sensor and chip size. Today, as I mentioned will be the "dessert" course, where I will be explaining the end result of what that all means! Welcome to another installment in our Time to Click series!

As I stated prior, the larger your chip and the more megapixels you have on it, the more information your camera can gather on the sensor and the more information you have in your image, which equals the larger file size as well. This is exactly why you see charts like this ...

Most memory card manufactures put something like this on the memory card packaging so you have a reference chart for how many images you get if your camera has X megapixels.

 Rule of thumb: By 2 of the largest cards you can afford. You wont go wrong and it will almost always be more then you think you would need, but you will always want a spare because you will always need it.

Now, I am going to tackle memory cards another day, so I don't want to really get into that - other then to make the point... again.. size matters.


So we left off yesterday talking about size of sensor chips. I told you it would pay off to figure out what you have, because today we are going to talk about how they effect your prints, and that digital Zoom.

Lets take the easiest first.

Digital Zoom.

Turn it off. You don't want it. You don't need it. Manufacturers are not doing you any favors by giving you this option. 

Why?
Well... you own a computer right? If you have prints made you do them online or take them someplace with a printer like a One Hour or Pro Photo lab right?
Any cropping you want is done, better, cleaner and more effectively with ANY basic computer or digital printer then with your CAMERA. Yep. It's true... digital zoom is making your sensor do the cropping for you and without good software, it really isn't designed to do that. Besides, if you want to zoom in on something that you can't physically get to with your optical (thats your real camera lens) zoom, chances are you will need to do other editing to the image as well! You should do it where you have the most control... like a photoshop program and save yourself the digital zoom headaches.

Optical zoom, is your physical lens on your camera. Digital Zoom is your camera "brain" cutting the captured image. Yep... your cutting away your prized megapixels as well... reducing the image size you can print... simply by not knowing better. Just turn it off (check your menu options) and make the commitment to only using your optical zoom! You will be happy you did!

Next. Sensor size and Printing

Sensor Size can effect your print images in 2 ways. The first is a direct reflection of larger size + more information = better quality, sharper images, and being able to print larger. (Or crop in closer to any one area without losing quality!)

This is no different then the thoery behind why 110 film sucked and large/meduim format cameras were the cream of the crop for professionals... 110 film was super small and didn't have the room to store a lot of information being roughly the size of my pinky nail where Meduim and Large format negatives are roughly the size of the palm of your hand. They could store a lot more information and capture light and details better.  They also could be blown up larger, and without "graininess" or what you would call a pixel in digital - because they were simply larger to start with. Same thing in the digital world as far as bigger being better.... and for the some of the same reasons... now there are more having to do with how they are made differently.. but for our purposes... were going to leave it at that.

The other way different sensors effect your prints has to do with the SHAPE of your sensor. Take a look at the shapes below on our sensor chart.

 Your standard iphone, and point and shoot cameras are more square then rectangle - right?

Now here is a chart for your print sizes...

 Notice that your common prints 4x6 and 5x7s are more rectangle then they are square? So what does this mean... basically.... if you have a point and shoot camera.... with a square sensor and you print 4x6 your going to crop your image from the top and bottom... Good to know ahead of time right? You want to know why many places started offering 4.5X6 prints - because they are FULL FRAME from point and shoot cameras (more square then rectangle) Nothing like shooting uncle Bob only to cut off his head every time... this means you want to take the time to check the cropping before you order prints - most places online or in store kiosks will do this - you just have to know about it - if it doesn't prompt you... ASK for help! It's a lot less time consuming then doing it via photoshop or something like that if your end result is just to print.

Note: You can compromise and always leave extra room at the top (when shooting horizontally) or on the sides when shooting vertically. 

 On the flip side, a 4x6 is considered  Full Frame for most DSLR's, showing you everything edge to edge.

However, that also means you have to keep in mind that as you print larger and the print sizes get more square your now cropping side to side. So if you are shooting a group, you have to give yourself extra room shoulder to shoulder (or past the shoulders really) in order not to crop off a person....

This is edge to edge a 4x6 with elbows... but the shaded white shows you a crop for an 8x10. Keep in mind when ordering larger prints you can usually get full frame options... such as 8x12 instead. Again, you just have to know WHY you want it!

I hope you can see why understanding your megapixels and knowing about the differences in sensor sizes is super important to you! You have to be aware what your camera's limitations are!

 You always want your end print to be the result you want!!! Keeping in mind your sensor size, and quality will plays a big role in composition!

Time to Click: Understanding Megapixles

Digital camera's have been around for a while now... and for the most part you don't run into the same issues that you had when purchasing them say.. even 5 years ago when megapixels were still "good" and not really a part of the "buying" decision. However, I am very aware that many people chuck the technical words out the door without really understanding them, what they mean, or how they apply to your photography. Most people do this simply because its a technical word or subject. Trust me when I say, I get it. I LOVE photography... but when I sit down with technical photographers that are all about the science and numbers... I really feel like my head will explode. It's not that I don't understand them, I do. I just have no idea how they keep all those technical figures about EVERY camera in their heads! But then, there is a reason why I am not an accountant also.

Even though it is not a megapixel race any more, and every camera you purchase these days will produce a quality print easily up to a 16x20... doesn't mean that we should assume that all camera's are equal here or that it "doesn't matter" or shouldn't play a role in your purchasing decision. There are many differences, without even getting technical that you as a consumer should be aware of... and understand. If you are looking at buying or simply looking to get better quality images out of what you have this is very important stuff!

As is my teaching style (explain-er that I am) I feel it's my job to give you information in a practical and "hands on" way. How does this effect you, and what is really important! So, if your craving an exploded head tech report on the newest items... you have to wait your turn, this isn't that post!

Now lets dive in so we can learn WHY you want to care about this technical stuff!

What is a CCD or CMOS chip:

Both the CCD and CMOS chips are simply an image sensor or the capture device of your camera. It the camera's "film" so to speak. It is where the information is captured before it is digitally stored onto your memory card. It is the brain of the camera, if the eyes are the lens, and the mouth is the memory card.  Basically the image sensor job is to take the light gathered from the pixels and convert it to a digital image which is then stored onto your memory card as a file.

What is a MegaPixel ( MP )?
Megapixels are (basically) what your sensors are made up of,  it is what "reads" the information and creates the image. Each sensor is made up of  millions and millions of pixels (think of this like the grain pieces in old school film if your familiar) They capture, and decipher all the information.
 

So the higher the megapixel rating of your camera (or other device) the better your images. In the theory of more is better, the more MP you have the more information that is gathered. Also more MP you have the better your images are as they get printed larger, and the less you are to see them as broken squares or "pixels" when they are printed. (This also controls why you get different file sizes on your images, and why your data cards can hold different amounts of images... it's all based on HOW much information is being gathered)

Almost. There is another factor. SIZE of the chip. Yep, I am going to say it. Size does matter. A lot.

This is a really good chart, but you have to put into your mind just how small were really talking... point and shoot camera sensors are smaller then your smallest fingernail. By a LOT.

If you take just the standard point and shoot camera sensor (Red) and put 12mp on to it, they are all going to be really really tiny right? Now, if you put the same 12 mp on say the Pro DSLR "full Frame" (purple) those pixels by default are larger and capture more information in each one. (like almost 20 times larger) so before you even get into differences in lenses, skill or anything else your Pro image sensor is creating a better quality image even though it has the SAME mp rating.

Crazy right?

To be fair, most DSLRs are not the purple sensor size... but that does account for the "pro" price on the ones that are! Your typical DSLR entry level or "pro-sumer" that mid range camera would be somewhere between yellow and the largest blue. Which makes a HUGE difference.

You should learn what size your sensor is - so that as we talk about differences in lens, and how your sensor size effects cropping and such you can know how it effects YOU! If you don't already know, open your manual to the "specs" page and it should be listed out there! (consider this your homework, because you need this information for part 2)

Now, some people wont like this... but I am going to point this out anyway...  Do you see the grey square,  the smallest one on that chart? That's your Iphone sensor, half of that smallest point and shoot camera quality. So, when you ask why I am such a firm believer in not using them for product images... there ya go. Right now, no matter how good it is, its just not comparable based off the sensor alone. It's like watching the first color release of the Disney Cinderella before any remastering or editing... compared to say... Tangled or Brave.  Functional, but not very detailed or pretty.

Now... Like a good host, I am going to let you digest your dinner before we get to desert! I find that making technical posts too long is a little overwhelming! So tomorrow I am going to continue this train of thought and share with you how your sensor size is related to printing images, cropping, and even that silly digital zoom you hear so much about.